Date: 13th September, 2014
Distance: 13.1 km
Time: 4 h
Main Range National Park Map
Two imposing peaks tower over the highway at Cunningham's Gap - Mount Mitchell and Mount Cordeaux. Graded walking tracks to the summits of both mountains are popular half-day walks, and offer visitors a relatively easy hike to great views over the Fassifern Valley and the rugged chain of mountains that constitute Main Range National Park.
The Mount Cordeaux walk was closed for the first half of 2014 after a storm caused landslides that obliterated the track in several places. Being reopened recently I decided it would be a good time to revisit this area of the park after a 4 year hiatus.
Last time I was here it was a sunny Autumn day, but it's nice to repeat walks in different seasons under different conditions to get a new perspective. My memories of this walk were nice views from near the summit. This time, misty rainforest scenery and a multitude of wildlife was the highlight.
The track begins at the carpark on the northern side of Cunningham's Gap. To reach the Mount Cordeaux walk, I took a right at the Rainforest Circuit and went via Fassifern Valley Lookout. In fine weather, the views east towards Moogerah Dam are good. Today wasn't so great.
 |
| Cloudy views from Fassifern Valley Lookout |
The vegetation around the lookout is open forest, dominated by eucalypts and grass trees. One small bush was alight with bright yellow flowers. Apart from another little clump near the summit of Mount Cordeaux, I didn't see these flowers anywhere else.
Despite the noisy highway nearby, at this time of the morning I was lucky enough to spot several pademelons hopping around the bush either side of the track. Getting an early start is the easiest way to see these locals, as they generally only appear around dawn and dusk.
Ignoring turnoffs to Gap Creek Falls and Palm Grove Circuit, I took the track heading uphill to Mt Cordeaux not far from the lookout. Beautiful rainforest was a highlight of the next 40 minutes, accentuated by low-lying cloud and the sounds of rainforest birds.
In many places you could see where avalanches had carved out huge rocky gullies down the side of the mountain, and where the track had been re-routed. The absence of trees or any other serious foliage in these gullies would probably offer good views of Mount Mitchell on a sunny day.
Shortly before the top the trail abruptly exits rainforest, zig-zagging back and forth through grass trees and spear lilies. A lookout on the southern side of Mount Cordeaux provides the best views of the summit, which is not accessible from the graded track. Mist rolling over the mountain offered an interesting perspective of the peak. Only a single spear lily had flowered, but later in spring the mountain will be covered in a sea bright red flowers.
 |
| Mount Cordeaux Lookout |
 |
| Mount Cordeaux shrouded in mist |
 |
| A single flowering spear lily |
Many walkers turn back here, which is a shame because the extension to Bare Rock is well worth the effort. Mount Cordeaux is about halfway to Bare Rock, but the walking is easier going from here and travels through more spectacular rainforest.
Initially, the path contours around the western side of Mount Cordeaux and over a narrow ridge with expansive views east and south back towards the grass tree and lily-covered summit. Although there is a fairly steep drop either side of the track, it's not overly exposed.
 |
| Looking back towards Mount Cordeaux, on the track to Bare Rock |
 |
| Narrow ridge linking Mount Cordeaux and Bare Rock |
Soon after, the track re-enters rainforest. On this overcast day it was particularly attractive through here, and I was even lucky enough to spot a rare Albert Lyrebird.
At the 5.5 km mark the track splits, and there is the option to walk 350 m downhill to Morgans Lookout. Although it's a short side trip, the views are limited and it's probably not worthwhile if you are heading all the way to Bare Rock.
 |
| View north from Morgans Lookout |
Bare Rock is only 10 min past the Morgans Walk junction. Views of the Main Range Ramparts and Mount Castle from the exposed, rocky slab are some of the best you will get. Bare Rock makes a nice lunch spot (even if you're there by 10am, like I was). I met a couple of guys who were doing an overnight walk along the Ramparts to Laidley Creek Falls, and onwards to Mount Castle tomorrow. It sounded like an awesome walk, hopefully I will get a chance to do it one cay.
 |
| Views of the Ramparts and Mount Castle from Bare Rock |
During the return walk the clouds lifted, so I finally managed to catch Mount Cordeaux's and Mount Mitchell's elusive peaks.
 |
| Mount Cordeaux, free of cloud! |
 |
| Mount Mitchell revealed |
Although Cunningham's Gap is a popular walking destination, by starting out early you can beat most of the crowds and it will feel like you have the mountains to yourself. Later in spring the spear lilies will be in full bloom, making it an excellent time to visit!
No comments:
Post a Comment